Bada Bagh In jaisalmer

Description

Atop a hill just minutes away from the desert city of Jaisalmer, travelers will find the eerily calm setting of Bada Bagh or Big Garden. Wind whips through crumbling cenotaphs, made of the famous golden stone of Jaisalmer, built in memory of the city's rulers. Giant wind turbines hum in unison interspersed around the domed roofs shading the sandstone and marble markers. Few tourists reach this visual oasis for various reasons. The sand dunes at Sam are a well publicized destination, especially for sunset views, and the cenotaphs at Sunset Point (closer to the city) are pushed by drivers too lazy to drive a few miles further.

Maharawal Jait Singh commissioned the construction of Bada Bagh in the early 16th century, completed by his son Lunakaran after his death. The site itself consists of a tank, a dam and a garden. The imperial chhatris or cenotaphs of the rulers were a tribute to the Bhatti dynasty. The oldest among them are the cenotaphs of Maharawal Jait Singh and his predecessor Devidas who reigned from 1470-1506. The newest cenotaph is that of Jawahar Singh who was Maharawal at the time of Indian independence. Jawahar Singh's chhatri was left incomplete as his son died within a year of his accession to the throne which was considered a bad omen by the family. From then on the practice of building a valedictory memorial to the ruling clan has been discontinued.

Quiet isolation is how to best describe the experience at Bada Bagh. A few local kids badger arriving tourists out of the car, eager to sell small rocks for Rs 10, quickly fading off as you make your way toward the monuments. The modest entry fee of Rs 70 is put toward the buildings' preservation, evidenced in the near spotless presentation. Virtually no graffiti exists and crumbling pillars, markers and rooftops have been replaced with new construction.

Various structures still need extensive repair yet the overall site is spectacular. With a lack of annoying tourists to disrupt the experience, the cenotaphs are easily discovered in peace. Mango trees dot the water parched landscape offering shade to the few pilgrims as well as locals who come to offer puja. The whir of wind turbines combined with breezes whistling through nearby trees and pigeons who call this place home allow imaginative minds to relish the idea of Jaisalmer before tourism depleted it's serenity.

Visitors will enjoy the beautifully carved structures at sunrise or sunset when picture perfect light abounds. Plan on an hour to see the sights. Tuk tuks as well as local taxis can bring you here but you'll need to have them wait for you as the absence of a steady stream of tourists means there are no waiting return rides to Jaisalmer.